Step 1: Marinate the Mutton
Wash the mutton well and drain away all the excess water. Pat the pieces dry with a clean kitchen towel.
In a large bowl, whisk together the yoghurt, ginger paste, crushed garlic (if using), Kashmiri red chilli powder, turmeric, fennel powder, dry ginger powder, black pepper, mustard oil, and salt.
Add the mutton and mix well so that every piece is coated evenly with the marinade.
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least two hours. If time permits, leave it overnight. A longer marination not only tenderises the meat but also allows the spices to penetrate deeply, giving the biryani a richer flavour.
Step 2: Prepare the Birista
While the mutton is marinating, heat the desi ghee in a wide frying pan.
Add the sliced onions in batches and fry them over medium heat until they turn evenly golden brown. Stir regularly to prevent them from burning. Properly fried birista adds sweetness, colour, and depth to the biryani, so do not rush this step.
Remove the onions with a slotted spoon and spread them on kitchen paper.
In the same ghee, fry the cashews until lightly golden. Add the raisins and cook only until they become plump. Remove and keep them aside.
Step 3: Cook the Mutton
Transfer the marinated mutton and all the marinade into a heavy-bottomed handi.
Cook over medium heat for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until the yoghurt begins releasing its moisture.
Reduce the flame, cover the handi, and cook slowly until the meat yields easily when pressed with a spoon but should not fall off the bone. It will finish cooking during dum.
Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. If required, add only a few tablespoons of hot water. The gravy should remain thick and concentrated because the rice will absorb its flavour during dum cooking.
Step 4: Cook the Rice
While the mutton is cooking, wash the basmati rice gently until the water runs clear. Soak it in fresh water for 30 minutes and then drain.
Bring plenty of water to a rolling boil in a large pot. Add the bay leaves, green cardamom, black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon stick, shahi jeera and salt.
Add the soaked rice and cook until it is about 70% done. The grains should still have a slight bite in the centre. They will finish cooking during the dum stage.
Drain the rice immediately and spread it on a large tray or wide plate. This prevents further cooking and helps keep the grains long and separate.
Step 5: Layer the Biryani
Check the mutton before layering. It should be almost tender with only a little thick gravy left in the handi. If there is too much liquid, cook uncovered for a few more minutes. Too much gravy can make the rice soggy.
Spread half of the cooked rice evenly over the mutton.
Scatter half of the fried onions, mint leaves, coriander leaves, fried cashews, raisins, fennel powder, dry ginger powder and half of the saffron milk over the rice. Sprinkle a few drops of rose water or kewra water if using.
Add the remaining rice and repeat the layering with the remaining garnishes.
Finish by drizzling the lemon juice over the top. It lifts the flavours without making the biryani sour.
Step 6: Dum Cooking
Cover the handi with a tight-fitting lid. Seal the edges with wheat dough or aluminium foil to trap the steam inside.
Place a heavy tawa on low heat and keep the sealed handi over it.
Cook on the lowest flame for 25 to 30 minutes.
Once the flame is switched off, leave the handi untouched for 10 minutes. During this time, the rice finishes absorbing the fragrant steam, making every grain light, separate and full of flavour. Opening the lid too early releases the trapped aroma and interrupts the final stage of cooking.
Step 7: Serve.
Lift the biryani gently from the sides rather than mixing it. This keeps the rice grains intact and ensures each serving has a generous portion of both fragrant rice and tender mutton. Enjoy it while it is still piping hot, when the aroma of saffron and whole spices is at its best.